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KNOW-HOW
MEETING WITH
CHOUX BY NICOLAS BOUSSIN
warded the title Meilleur Ouvrier de France Pâtisserie (Best Pastry Craftsman in France) in 2000 and vice champion of the World Pastry Cup in 2002, Nicolas Boussin now works with the brand Elle & Vire®. This inspirational chef reveals his secrets, showing us how to make a perfect choux paste.
A
with the Maison de la Crème Elle & Vire®.
HOW WOULD YOU DESCRIBE YOUR BAKING?
which holds exceptionally well. I have also discovered the Dessert Base range, which offers very high quality products.
WHAT ARE YOUR SECRETS FOR MAKING A PERFECT CHOUX PASTE?
WHAT IS YOUR PROFESSIONAL BACKGROUND?
First, I completed the French CAP diplomas in pastry making and cuisine. After gaining experience at Ledoyen, I left France to join the prestigious Wittamer workshop, supplier to the Court of Belgium. I next joined the Bongrain Group, which was looking for a pastry chef for Potel & Chabot, on the east coast of the United States. In 1998, I heard that the Grande Epicerie in Paris, France, was looking for a pastry chef; this is where I created the chocolate cube together with food designer Géraldine Lorand. In 2003, I joined the research & development team at Grand Marnier®. Since July 2014, I have set off on a new adventure
I usually describe my approach to baking as “traditional with an unexpected spin”. I am constantly seeking to understand what makes a cake successful, and how it is perceived by others... My creative thinking is guided and nourished by this ongoing quest for meaning and by my “no limits” approach, as well as by always striving to achieve the perfect balance. Take eclairs, for example: an authentic eclair is made with a simple choux paste filled with non-sweetened fresh cream. The top of the eclair is coated with a sweet fondant icing. Nowadays, the cream is often so overworked that the eclair ends up being unbalanced. In my recipes, I focus on combining two or three flavours at most and playing with different textures.
WHAT ARE YOUR FAVOURITE ELLE & VIRE® PRODUCTS?
I use the Gourmet Butter 82% fat every day for its delicious buttery taste, and the Excellence Whipping Cream 35.1% fat,
First, care has to be taken to avoid over-drying the paste when heating it; it should be stirred with a whisk at low speed for 3 to 4 minutes before adding the eggs. This allows the flour to absorb all the liquids and fats to give a perfectly smooth mixture. Care also has to be taken with the temperature of the eggs: it is better to add eggs that are at room temperature. If no crisp is being used, I would advise spraying the paste with vegetable oil to ensure its even development. Last but not least, it is obviously very important to keep a close eye on the baking! If a fan oven is being used, the choux buns should be started off in a very hot oven with the fan off.
01. Add the flour to the boiling liquid and stir quickly. 02. Add the eggs one-by-one and mix in. 03. Beat the mixture and make a “v”. 01. 02. 03.
18 — ELLE & VIRE ®