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MEETING WITH
ESTABLISHED IN THE PHILIPPINES SINCE 1999, CYRILLE SOENEN IS CHEF AT THE IMPRESSIONS RESTAURANT IN MAXIMS TOWER OF RESORTS WORLD MANILA. THIS FRENCH CHEF HAS ALSO OPENED HIS OWN RESTAURANT, BRASSERIE CIÇOU, WHERE HE OFFERS AUTHENTIC CUISINE.
I come from a family that loves to get together. In our home, conviviality reigns and the kitchen has been the setting for many special moments. These moments of shared pleasure spent preparing meals and working ingredients were instrumental in forming my desire to become a Chef. After a few weeks' work experience as a baker, I began my apprenticeship at the Hotel Ritz as a Compagnon du Tour de France. I started out at the Ritz with Michel Roth, Christian Constant, Christian Le Squer and Yves Camdeborde... we were all in the same kitchen brigade and there was a fierce rivalry in the kitchens.
CAN YOU TELL US SOMETHING ABOUT YOUR CAREER BACKGROUND?
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HAT MADE YOU DECIDE TO BECOME A CHEF?
WHICH INGREDIENTS DO YOU PREFER WORKING WITH? WHAT IS YOUR SIGNATURE DISH?
I mainly use fresh, seasonal ingredients. My cuisine gives pride of place to French produce—chanterelles, game and vegetables from our regions share the menu with local produce. Cream is also very important (and always has been!) in my cuisine. Since I arrived in the Philippines, I have been cooking sea bass, known in France as “bar”, very frequently. This fish can be prepared in a multitude of different ways and its flesh is very easy to work with. Sea bass and truffle risotto with ceps and parsley cream sauce is, without a doubt, the signature dish at Impressions. I cook the cream until it develops a light, fluffy, mousse-like texture. This is what gives the risotto its rich, creamy smoothness.
WHAT ARE THE SPECIFIC FEATURES OF BEING AN EXECUTIVE CHEF?
After graduating with a French Pastry Chef CAP, I worked at the Duc d’Enghien and for Le Drouant. I then joined the French Defence and Finance Ministries, before gaining further experience working as a Chef on cruise vessels owned by Croisières Paquets and the liner Le Mermoz. During this time, I travelled widely from Scandinavia to South Africa. On returning to Paris, I worked at the Ritz kitchens as a chef de partie (station chef) and, in 1996, I took my first steps with the Intercontinental Hotel Group in Paris. Three years later, I packed my bags and set off again, this time to join the team at the Hotel Intercontinental Manila in the Philippines as a Chef to Prince Albert, after which I was appointed Executive Chef at the Hotel. I then went on to open my own restaurant, the CiÇou. Today, I offer a bistro-style cuisine at the Brasserie CiÇou. At the same time, I have been working as Chef at the Impressions restaurant for the last 4 years.
HOW WOULD YOU DESCRIBE YOUR CUISINE? WHAT ARE YOUR MAJOR INFLUENCES?
The Executive Chef has to be a good manager, with solid expertise in administrative management… Naturally, they also play a key role in the kitchen where they supervise the work of the kitchen brigades. In practice, the work outlook here is very different to that in France; lots of people here go into the business just to be sure of getting a job rather than through any real passion or enthusiasm. It is the Executive Chef’s job to engage their interest by introducing them to the infinite richness of the world of cuisine. I am very committed to the transmission of knowledge. The Brasserie CiÇou partners the Istituto Culinario, a prestigious Filipino catering college. Cooking is taught very differently here, as there are no apprenticeships like in France; the emphasis is on practical lessons. I teach there on a regular basis.
WHAT ARE YOUR FAVOURITE ELLE & VIRE® PRODUCTS? WHAT DOES ELLE & VIRE® MEAN FOR YOU?